Collection of Costumes and Fashion

History:

The Collection of Costumes and Fashion at the University of Applied Arts Vienna had a variety of different functions throughout its history. It can be traced back to a collection of costume objects that were first used as models in the historicist and orientalist painting education of the k.k. Kunstgewerbeschule (School of Arts and Crafts). The collection has for the first time been comprehensively inventoried at the initiative of the Viennese stage designer and graphic artist Alfred Roller. Under Roller, who as a co-founder of the Secession and an active member of the Wiener Werkstätte sought to promote the entanglement of fine and applied arts, the collection acquired a new status within artistic education. In his course Vom Sinn der Kleidung (On the Meaning of Clothing), held from 1912-1934, he used the objects of the collection as illustrative material for his class on the theory and history of clothing. The holdings of the collection were expanded when Rosalia Rothansl – a specialist in textiles, carpets and tapestry, who was one of the first female professors at Kunstgewerbeschule in 1914 – took over the administration of the collection. She acquired around 330 textile works from her students. After Second World War, the objects were used as part of a course of study specifically geared to the production and research of clothing. In 1958 the collection was affiliated with the seminar for costume studies and stage design led by the costume designer Elli Rolf. From then on, the objects served as teaching aids, which could be used by students and teachers in various ways. This status has changed again in 2004, when the costume and fashion collection was integrated into the holdings of the institute Collection and Archive at the University of Applied Arts Vienna: The objects may no longer be worn, they are stored in accordance with conservation guidelines, administered as museum exhibits, researched and shown as loans in local and international exhibitions.

Holdings:

Today, the holdings of the Collection of Costumes and Fashion at the University of Applied Arts Vienna include about 8000 objects (clothing, accessories, textiles) from the 18th century to the present. The collection mainly focuses on works by (former) teachers and graduates of the former School of Applied Arts and today's University of Applied Arts, but also encompasses works from the Viennese region and from non-European contexts. Its most significant convolutes are rare historical garments (e.g. from collection of Mileva Roller), works by Gertrud Höchsmann (1902-1990, professor from 1959-1972) and Fred Adlmüller (1909-1989, professor from 1973-1979) and a collection of hats by Adele List (1893-1983). In addition, the collection includes works of graduates and prize-winners of the University of Applied Arts and of internationally renowned fashion designers. Since 2020, new emphasis is put on works of artists and designers since Modernism whose practice is situated at the boundaries of art and fashion. The collection is continuously amended and enlarged through donations and purchases.

The holdings of the Collection of Costumes and Fashion can be viewed only by prior appointment via e-mail (doris.drochter@uni-ak.ac.at). Kindly note to obey our safety instructions in the buildings of the university. Visitors and Researchers may browse approximately 2500 objects at our online database: https://emp-web-90.zetcom.ch/eMP/eMuseumPlus

Library:

The holdings of the Costume and Fashion Collection Library can currently only be requested through the University of Applied Arts Library. Since the staff of the University Library is currently working in two teams, an order may take more time than usual.

Contact

Universität für angewandte Kunst Wien

Kostüm- und Modesammlung

Dominikanerbastei 5

A-1010 Wien

Mag. Stefanie Kitzberger

Director

T: +43 (1) 71133 2840

e-mail: stefanie.kitzberger@uni-ak.ac.at

ADir. Doris Drochter

Office & Depot Management, Library

T: +43 (1) 71133 2841